Windshield Washer Reservoir Replacement DIY Guide
DISCLAIMER
As always, follow all safety protocols. Don't undertake this task if you aren't comfortable with it, fully understand it, and are capable of completing it. The information provided may be incomplete or inaccurate. You are ultimately responsible for anything you do. Neither Redpants, LLC or myself is responsible or liable for anything that may occur.
It's surprisingly common for the windshield washer fluid reservoir ("washer tank" for short) to need replacement. You'll know this is the case in your car when you fill up the washer tank and find a puddle beneath your car, or if you get the ever-annoying Fill Washer Fluid warning on the readout in your gauge cluster.
There are two things that can go wrong with a washer tank. First is that it can leak - caused either by a crack in the tank itself, or by a leaking grommet between the tank and the pumps or level sensor. Second is a bad level sensor, which I discuss at the end of this video.
Needed
New washer tank
- DB9/DBS/Vanquish/Virage
- Vantage/Rapide
Philips screwdriver
Flat-head screwdriver
T30 Torx bit
Ratchet
Needlenose pliers
Snips/similar to cut zip ties
Drain pan, bucket, or towels
About an hour
Before You Begin
If you have a physical leak from your washer tank, the tank needs to be replaced. If you don't have a leak, but still get a warning, it's possible you just need to clean the level sensor. The sensor is located at the backside of the tank and can be reached from below. It might be worth trying to fix that before buying new parts and replacing the washer tank.
When replacing your washer tank, you need to know if you have headlight washers or not. There are two washer tanks available: One for cars with headlight washers, and one for cars without. Not sure? Take a look at your current washer tank. If it has two pumps, you do have headlight washers. If it has one pump, you do not have headlight washers.
Washer fluid will spill during this job. Have a drain pan, bucket, or even just a towel or two positioned below the washer tank to catch the spilled fluid.
At the end of my DIY Guide video, I say the fluid level sensor could be the problem. This is very rare. The washer tank cracking is very common. So although there’s a slim chance you just need to clean the fluid level sensor, keep in mind you’ll more than likely have to replace the washer tank.
Step 1
Use a flat-head screwdriver to loosen the worm gear clamp holding the top of the filler neck to the washer tank fill cap. Pull the rubber fill neck free and set the worm gear clamp aside to reuse when the new tank is installed.
Step 2
Get the car on jack stands or use a lift, then remove the front right-hand wheel and fender liner (passenger side front on US cars, driver front on UK cars).
Step 3
Cut the zip ties holding the starter cable to the underside of the washer tank. Be careful not to cut or damage the starter cable casing! If you can safely cut the zip tie holding the level sensor wire to the backside of the washer tank, cut that one as well and release the connector from the level sensor. If you can get your hand into the space, you can do deal with the zip tie and level sensor connector later so don't risk damaging anything if you can't easily get them.
Step 4
Pull the hoses out of the channels in the washer tank and remove the hoses from the pump(s). The hoses may tear easily, so be careful with them. If you find the hoses are staying stuck on the pumps, use a pair of pliers and gently rotate the hoses on the pump nipples to break the seal between the hoses and nipples.
Remove the connectors from the pump(s). One pump has a wire clip holding the connector in place, which can be easily removed with needlenose pliers. The other pump has a push-tab, conveniently (sarcasm) located on the backside
Step 5
Use the T30 Torx bit and ratchet to remove the three T30 Torx bolts holding the washer tank in place. You can now pull the washer tank out of the car. There's a bracket on the top side of the tank that can make removal tricky, so be patient and try moving the washer tank at different angles to get it out of the car.
Note: If you didn't cut the zip tie holding the level sensor wire or didn't release the connector from the level sensor, you can pull the tank out part-way and reach those more easily. Make sure those are done before pulling the washer tank completely out or you may damage the level sensor wiring or connector.
Installation of the new washer tank is the reverse of the steps above. Make sure you fill up your new washer tank with windshield washer fluid, check for leaks, and test the system before you start driving, then you're all done!